🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family completely surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble shop earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.